Friday, 17 November 2017


free crochet ladies top pattern, free crochet pineapple ladies top pattern


Welcome back to Sweet Nothings Crochet free blogs.  
I’ve made this very same pattern as a skirt not too long ago.  This is the same pattern, turned upside down – hence the name  ;) ‘)

And inspired by these photos, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 150 gms of the lovely All Seasons Hobby India acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons. 

Skill level : Advanced Skill level

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at . In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :

Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fdc : Foundation double crochet                             ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                 sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                   yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                         sc : Single crochet
trc : Treble / Triple crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

free crochet pineapple pattern top pattern, free crochet ladies top pattern

We start our project from the bottom up – from the base of the top to the shoulders.  So our first start row will be half the round measure of the part of the body you are working with – ie. How long do you want your top? IF you want it till the waist, then you will start with half round waist measure.  
Remember that you need to check both the half chest / bust measure and waist measure and use the larger half round measure.  Also keep the stretch of your yarn as well as the tension (tightness / looseness) of your crochet work in mind when working with tops. 

Our pattern is a direct copy of the skirt – it’s just worked upside down.  This means that the top of the skirt (around waist) is the bottom of our top (also around waist!).

So you are working the exact same pattern, just that you are working it UP to the shoulders, while the skirt was worked DOWN to the knees. 
Great 2-in-1 pattern, right?

One other thing that I’d like to mention before you can whizz off to get the pattern.  The pattern has a fixed start fdc count of 76.  Look at the pattern. It has a centre pineapple section and sides that are plain.. So here’s where you need to work in calculations and work a small swatch to check your gauge and see how many stitches give you how many inches for the plain section of the pattern.

The centre pineapple bit is 30 sts, and the plain sides are the balance 46 (so 23 on each side).  The centre 30 sts stays the same, and that will be worked in pattern.  You can add to the side 23 sts in case you need to.

So here’s what you will need to do.  You will need to work a gauge swatch with your yarn and see if you get the gauge given.  The pattern has been worked for a 27-29” waist.  In case you get gauge, then you will get a 27-29” waist ; and that’s how you will calculate how much you need to add to get the size you’ll need.

The other thing you can do is work the pattern for the first say 5 rows.. and then measure and decide if you need to add to the side 23 sts.   I'm sorry with certain patterns, it is just too difficult to figure out a stitch count to make it usable in any situation... but then this is what creativity is all about!  Here is the upside down chart for you :)

Right then.. we’re good to go.  Please go over to my other blog at to get the written pattern instructions.  
Once you have worked all the way to the end, come back here and we’ll see how we join the top up to get the open shoulder top.  See you soon. 

free crochet pineapple pattern top, free crochet ladies top pattern

So you have successfully finished two halves of your top.  Using one of the joining methods giving above, join the sides of your top.

Now you need to decide on how wide you want your neck opening.

a)   Place your markers to define the two sides points of the neckline.
b)   Attach rings to both sides of the top spacing them evenly apart.  It does not matter how many rings you use. Personally, I’d say a little more rather than less – as that would improve the fall.
c)     Ensure that you attach rings in exactly the same point for both halves (front and back) of the top.
d)   Join the rings that will mark the shoulders and then sleeve (cold shoulder portion) of the top.
e)    After I’d finished the top, I thought of a great idea – you could attach a bead bang centre of your ring – and bling it up a bit.

Go ahead, create – but do remember to mention me when you show off this creation ;)

Final finishing :
Once you are done with the shoulders, we will do the final finishing for the base of the top.  The lower edge of the top is a little “off” where we have worked the pineapple bit.  So here’s what I did
a)   Run 2 rounds of hdc all around.  Join with a sl-st at the end of each round.
b)   Ensure that you have hdc in multiples of 5 when you are done.  If you are running off count, reduce to cinch the waist, rather than add stitches to get the stitch count.

Border pattern :
For the border, let’s work a small shell pattern all around.

Round 1 : sc in the 1st hdc ;
*sk next 2 hdc, 7 dc in the next hdc ; sk next 2 hdc, sc in the next hdc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

We have completed the crochet portion – now to join all these elements together.
Here’s where your creativity comes in again. 
a)   Check and see how many ‘pineapples’ you have along the last row and find the centre one.  Count off that centre one to see how wide you want your neckline opening and mark the pineapples to decide the sides.
b)   You will need to join the last 2 pineapples for the front and back of the top
c)     Between these two markers, you need to decide how many more joints you would like between your front and back
d)   You could also decide to allow the top to just flop down after placing two attachments for the shoulder portion.  This would mean that you do not join the sleeve ends and that will flop down like an “open sleeve”.
e)    To join the markers together, I suggest you use (plastic) rings.  I have covered the rings with yarn not just to give uniformity but also to aid in attaching the two rings (back to front)
f)     You would need to first attach the ring to the marked point on the top (one ring each for back and front markers) and then attach together. Please wear them after you attach each set of rings to check that they are as loose (or tight) as you want them.  If you are making this for someone else, please check this against their top measure(s) or draft.
Fasten off and glue down all ends and block as per yarn instructions.

And that’s it.. we’re done with this splendidly beautiful creation.

Remember that when you wear your top and show off on social media, tag me so I can enjoy all this loveliness as well. J

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Thursday, 9 November 2017


free crochet ladies jacket pattern, free crochet pawz jacket pattern


I am making this jacket for a very special animal lover.   I made the original pattern by Amy Brewer for the scarf first. The idea of paws running up and down the jacket was just too good to miss out on, and I am thrilled to say that when I wrote to the lovely designer, she gave me her permission to use it in this project.

Materials used : Today I have used about 120 gms of some Indian unbranded knitting cotton , with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
For Indians : This is the unbranded knitting cotton from Samrat Megastore.  Check the page on Facebook.  You can also use the wonderful  Indian Anchor or Laura knitting cottons with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
For Non-Indians : Among the international yarns that I have used of similar 
thickness , I’d say you could use Aunt Lydia cotton 10, Sullivans (Australia) ; Milford soft knitting cotton , DMC Petra knitting cotton and Hilaza Rustica Eclat knitting cotton.
Edit : Amy Brewer added that she thinks Cotton 3 would be a better fit than Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 as it is  heavier and would give a better fall. :)

That said, you can make this project with any yarn and a hook that suits it.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced. 

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

Abbreviations used :  (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                 sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                      sp : Space                                 
sl-st : Slip stitch                                              ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                              hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over 
fsc : Foundation Single crochet           
fdc : Foundation Double crochet

For this pattern, I have adapted the Meandering Paw Prints Scarf pattern by Amy Brewer at and , and you will need to go to the link above for the actual pattern.

Amy has several pattern ideas using the paw print, so do check the above link out.

I am going to tell you how I worked on my jacket here, adapting Amy’s pattern.

a)   We will work one back and two fronts.  You can either work three rectangles for each part, without shaping the armholes, or neckline.  The front sections then will fall with a collar like presentation automatically.

b)   OR we work on the one back and two fronts with a small shaping for armhole and neckline, which is what I opt on working on here today.

c)     The blanket pattern link given above works better, as we are all definitely going to need more than 20 sts to work a width
d)   The pattern repeat is in multiples of 20 (if you are starting with the fsc – please check the pattern link for not starting with fsc)
e)    Our pattern is worked bottom up – so we will start at the base of our jacket and work our way up to the shoulders.
f)     Start with multiples of 20, as given in the instruction sheet. For the back, work half the round waist / round chest and for the two fronts, work half the measure you are using for the back.
g)    Check waist and chest and use whichever measure is larger – so that the jacket fronts neatly go across and close across the chest.

There are two ways to make this jacket – the Easy and the Pretty tough one.  
For both, you will need to go to the pattern instructions and work a rectangle till you reach the armhole / neckline. 
For the easy route, you will not working an armhole or neckline shaping / decrease. You will make a rectangle for the back and two smaller ones for the front – starting from the base and working all the way to the shoulders.  You will then return here and check finishing instructions below.

For the Pretty tough route, you are shaping the armholes and neckline, come back here for decrease ideas.

Armhole decrease ideas :
If you are planning on a small decrease / shaping along the armhole, come along and let’s work on this together.
a)   As I always suggest, place your work on top of a good fitting top and see approximately how much you want to shape in.
b)   Sl-st into the 1st 5 dc, and dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc
c)     Continue the pattern all the way till the last 7 dc, dc 2-tog over in the 7th and 6th dc from end, and turn, leaving last 5 sts unworked.
d)   Dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sts and then work in pattern till the last 2 sts ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts.  Total decrease of 7 sts made.
e)    Continue working without any further decrease all the way till you reach the neck
f)     So what is the difficulty?  Well, depending on where you start your armhole decrease, you will need to keep a track of where the ‘holes’ for the next set of paws come along.  So say you have decreased 6 sts with the 1st decrease (Point b)  ; and then another 1 st via (Point c) on each side ; when you are working the pattern row, you will need to calculate how many stitches to the next paw hole pattern.
g)    It may also happen that one of your little paw holes are right at the end (say you decrease Row 4, Row 10, Row 12), so you will have one little toe less on that paw print – and you could decide to take the whole paw off or work with one toe missing! That part will go under the armhole anyway.
h)    So with every row where we are starting the base of the paw (i.e Rows 2, 6, 10, 14…), you will need to start your pattern 7 sts from end.  What does this mean? Say for Row 14, we need to start dc 12, you will start dc 5 (12 – 7 sts) and then work the pattern, ending similarly with a different number of stitches.  The dc in between two sets of paw patterns will remain the same.  Complicated? Yes, a bit.. but like a puzzle, you will get this done bit by bit and enjoy it.. trust me!
i)      The following rows (i.e Row 15, 16, 17 in this case) for the completion of this paw will be easy as you just follow up till that ch-4 sp and work back from it for the little four toes. 
j)      May I suggest that you keep a track of whatever you are doing for the decreases here as they will help when you are working for the front armhole shaping.
k)   But this is where your creativity comes in – and no one knows what you are creating anyway.. this is Your Jacket! Go create.. go crazy.. have fun!

Neckline shaping ideas :
If you are planning on a small shape along the neckline, come along and let’s work on this together.
a)   Decide how deep and wide you want your neckline.  Place markers to mark the two side points of the neckline
b)   Work in pattern till the marker and then turn back to work in pattern back to the armhole.
c)     Continue working only on these few stitches from armhole to neckline till you reach the shoulder level
d)   Mirror what you have worked for one side of the front on the other side as well.
e)    The same worries / calculations that you went through for the armhole are here as well.  What I did was keep track of the changes I’d made for the armhole, and tweaked them again for the neckline – and then kept track of what I was doing for one side to duplicate for the other.
f)     That said, you could well decide to have a pair of rectangles for the front, without any front neckline shaping

Finishing :
Once you have got the two fronts and one back all done, we are set to finish and join this all up.
a)   Use one of the links at the top of this blog to join the two shoulders and sides.
b)   Run a round of sc all the way around the neckline and armhole to even the edges out.
c)     You can decide to run an additional round of sc just to get a neater edge.

And that’s it.. your exquisite and unique Pawz vest is ready to wear show off.

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